MAAA Wingspan

28 the engines useful life andmemorial due. This is because sometimes depending on your engine, replacing the crankshaft and case usually costs more than a new engine. Lastly, I inspect all the O-rings and gaskets. Replace any gasket that has a nick or break, or any O-rings that have become hard and brittle as this will cause pain and frustration when tuning. Trust ME. Ok so start by installing the new bearings if you need to. Heat the crankcase again to allow the new bearings to slip into their spots. When the case is warmenough, press the bearing in and tap it home with a small wooden block or a plastic hammer. Do not force the bearings in. If they are too tight, warm the case somemore until they slip in easily or with a gentle tap or push. The crankshaft should be able to slip back into the bearings now, and a gentle tap will seat it up against the rear bearing. The new bearings should come pregreased, but I also like to use after-run oil on all parts during the reassembly andmaking sure all parts are well lubricated will prevent any chance of damage when you run the engine for the first time after its gone back together. After the crankshaft is back in, slip the rod and piston back onto the crankpin using your scribemarks tomake sure of proper alignment. Slide the liner down onto the piston and into the case. Place the head and gasket on the cylinder and tighten themdown. Snug each head screw evenly and not too tightly. The engine should be able to be easily turned over by pinching the crankshaft nose. Replace the rear cover and then the carb. Assemble the collet and drive washer and put a prop onto the shaft and tighten it with the washer and nut. Add a few extra drops of oil down the head before installing the plug andmuffler to ensure adequate lubrication of all parts. That’s it guys! Flip the prop over and check for compression and leaks from the head or backplate, around the carb, etc. The engine should now be looking fine, and ready tomount and test run. Onto the next engine.